By Kacy Spooner and Trav Williams
Stewards ProjectOur journey across the country began in Olympia, Washington on a rainy day, pondering the discussions of food and farmers that are ever-present in the news and media these days. Travis Williams and I (Kacy Spooner) were raised on a small Oregon farm and the New England suburbs, respectively. As we chatted last winter about our fascination, and our ignorance, of the vast diversity of agricultural practices employed around the globe, we began to plot a project that would allow us to get news straight from the source. By the end of the summer we would visit over 160 agriculturalists in 25 states, recording their oral histories and perspectives on the thing that sustains us all and breeds so much contention: farming.
Keep in mind ignorance is nobody’s fault. Really, how much of the American public has had the opportunity to visit and understand a rice farm? For that matter, a Kansan wheat farmer may have no concept of how a two-acre CSA in Pennsylvania operates, and an urban gardener may never have a chance to speak with a Midwest rancher. We all are influenced greatly by the media that we are exposed to.
As we traveled and spoke with this diversity of farmers, we began to understand that many farmers suffer from the general public’s lack of understanding about what it takes to operate a farm in the black, and many also seemed to harbor misunderstandings regarding other types of farmers.
When we arrived in Richvale, California to meet
Dennis Lindberg, we knew we were in for a treat. We had spoken with so many farmers already, but this was the first full-scale rice opportunity that we’d ever had a chance to visit. The early afternoon sun backlit the rice paddies and made them look like they were glowing. Dennis was a tour guide of the highest degree, and I think he loves rice farming as much as he cherishes his community-members and his hometown.
One of his take-home points was about the closeness of the Richvale farming community. Though there are a lot of rice growers, the competition isn’t based on under-pricing or out-contracting your neighbor; it’s about who can contribute to improve schools, fire departments, and civic life in this small town. The way Dennis tells it, the community spirit here beckons each citizen to offer what they can and take what they need, with an understanding that failures and successes are communal opportunities.
In the 25 states we visited, we had conversations that started with a few scripted questions and usually flowed down rabbit trails and tangents. One question that we tried to ask each farmer was “what are the issues in agriculture that you struggle with?” That usually would open a floodgate for farmers to explain the volatile, complicated milk pricing system, the cost of amending their soil for planting, the reliance on immigrant labor and government involvement, the worry of the future of farming when most farmers currently sport grey hair. Each type of agriculture had issues that only those involved could possibly understand.
When we asked Dennis what he would like to see to benefit him as a farmer, he said, “public acceptance that we're out here. And we want to remain here! We got to keep this commerce going…And rice is what's doing that in this case. I want to see that continue.”
Feeling under-appreciated was one of the most common frustrations of farmers that we spoke with. “I wish people would just come see it,” said a chicken producer in North Carolina. “I don’t think the public has any idea how hard we work to feed the world,” said an Illinois corn grower. And, honestly, we had never really considered the unique challenges of growing rice down in California.
After hearing some of these responses about challenges, Trav and I would ask a farmer something like “so, why do you continue to farm?” A smile would generally break out across the interviewee’s face and he or she would give an answer along the lines of “it’s in my blood and I don’t know much else!”
Dennis was no different. Farmers are a diverse bunch, of all ages, creeds, attitudes, and styles; some travel often and some never leave the farm in their life. Most really have the same goals: to produce food, to have an income, and to be a part of their community. They just go about it differently, with different hardships and challenges, not the least of which are misunderstandings on the part of consumers and other types of farmers. Given an option, very few farmers would choose another occupation. Dennis just harvested his 69th consecutive rice crop last year, at the age of 86. It’s what he does, and he is proud as anything to be a farmer.
We’re thrilled that we could learn about rice from the source; it’s our job to remind people that people like Dennis and all of the other skilled farmers are out there, with good intentions and sincere care for their land. Like many others, when asked if he would retire from farming anytime soon, he responded heartily, “Hell no! I just learned how!”
Learn more about the Stewards Project and read profiles of numerous other farmers across America at portraitofafarm.blogspot.com
Brian McKenzie proudly represents the fourth generation of rice farmers in his family. Following his graduation in 2005 from The University of Nevada Reno where he earned bachelors degrees in Economics and Marketing, Brian returned to the family farm in South Sutter County to farm full-time alongside his father, Chris. Brian and his wife, Ashley, grow several varieties of conventional and organic rice. Brian enjoys the challenges that farming brings and takes pride in producing food for the world.
